Phalodi Travel Guide

Phalodi sits on the old desert route between Jodhpur, Bikaner and Jaisalmer, in the heart of the Thar. Most travellers know it for Khichan, the village next door where thousands of demoiselle cranes spend the winter, but the town itself rewards a stop: a fifteenth-century fort, richly carved red-sandstone havelis, busy temples, and a ring of desert villages with shrines to Rajasthan’s folk deities.

About Phalodi

Rajasthan Tourism describes Phalodi as the driest district of the state. Its old names, Vijayanagar, Vijayapatan and Phalavridhika, point to a long history as a trading town in the desert, and the district today is a leading producer of salt and solar energy. Phalodi became a district in its own right in August 2023.

Things to see in Phalodi town

Phalodi Fort

The fort stands in the middle of the town and is protected by the State Department of Archaeology and Museums. It was built in 1468 (Vikram Samvat 1525) by Rao Hammir of the Rathore dynasty, and has a three-storey palace, strong ramparts with bastions, and several inscriptions. Entry is free; it is open from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm.

Kalyan Rai Ji Temple

Facing the fort, this temple is built in the old Nagara style. Inscriptions inside record work carried out in 1188, 1639 and 1717.

Shri Latiyal Mata Temple

The town’s best-loved temple has two shrines; the smaller one is known locally as the Juna Mandir. The goddess is worshipped as Latiyal Mata, in the form of Mahishasura Mardini. Look for the sacred khejri (shami) tree and the temple’s ever-burning flame. A fair is held here during Navratri. Darshan times are 5 am to 12 noon and 5:30 pm to 9 pm.

Shri Gaudi Parshvanath Jain Temple

Entered through a triple gateway, this Jain temple is known for its colourful glass inlay and gold work on the walls and ceilings. The white stone image of Parshvanath is on the second floor. Darshan times are 5:30 am to 11:30 am and 5:30 pm to 8:30 pm.

The havelis of Phalodi

Phalodi’s merchant families built grand mansions in red sandstone, with carved facades, balconies and courtyards. Among the best known are the havelis of Seth Sangidas Thanvi, Lalchand Dhaddha, Phoolchand Gulechha and Motilal Amarchand. Most are private homes: admire them from the street, and ask before going inside or photographing residents.

Khichan and the demoiselle cranes

Khichan (also spelled Khinchan) is a village about 4 km from Phalodi. Every winter it becomes home to huge flocks of demoiselle cranes, known locally as kurja, which fly in from their breeding grounds far to the north. Rajasthan Tourism estimates that 20,000 to 25,000 cranes arrive each year between September and March, and the Government of India puts the wintering population at more than 22,000 birds. Numbers and dates change from year to year, so check locally before you plan around them.

The cranes gather at a feeding ground in the village, where residents have fed them grain for decades, and at the village pond. In February 2025 the Khichan wetland, about 54 hectares, was designated a Ramsar site, a wetland of international importance. Khichan is also worth a walk for its own carved red-stone havelis: Rajasthan Tourism counts more than fifty.

Watching the cranes responsibly

• Stay outside the feeding enclosure and keep your distance: the birds take flight easily, and every disturbance costs them energy.
• Keep quiet, move slowly and don’t call, clap or throw anything to make the flock rise for a photograph.
• Do not fly drones over the birds.
• Follow any instructions from villagers or forest staff, and remember the feeding ground is looked after by the community.

Beyond Phalodi: dunes, shrines and fairs

The villages around Phalodi hold important shrines of Rajasthan’s folk deities and of the Bishnoi community, as well as dunes for a desert evening. Distances are by road from Phalodi, as given by Rajasthan Tourism.

Dechu sand dunes

About 40 km from Phalodi, Dechu is known for its sand dunes, where you can take camel and jeep rides. The Baan Mata temple is also here. Operators and standards vary, so choose one that keeps its animals healthy and rested.

Pabuji Temple, Kolu

About 27 km from Phalodi on the way to Dechu, Kolu has an old red-stone temple and a newer white one dedicated to the folk hero Pabuji, along with a panorama about his life built by the Rajasthan Heritage Conservation and Promotion Authority. A large fair is held on Chaitra Amavasya.

Jambholav Dham, Jamba

In Bap tehsil, Jamba is the main pilgrimage centre of Guru Jambheshwar, founder of the Bishnoi community, known for its long tradition of protecting trees and wildlife. The site includes the Jambh Sarovar, and a fair is held on Chaitra Amavasya.

Other shrines of the folk deities

• Hadbuji Temple, Bangti (about 19 km): honours Hadbuji Maharaj, revered as a saint, protector of cows and lover of nature; the temple venerates his bullock cart. Fair on Bhadrapada Krishna Shashthi.
• Mehuji Mangaliya Temple, Bapini (about 80 km): a folk deity worshipped as a protector of cows. Fair on Bhadrapada Krishna Ashtami.
• Shri Karni Mata Dham, Suvap (about 58 km south-east, near Aau): the birthplace of Karni Mata, with the Avad Mata temple and a memorial. A procession and fair are held during Navratri.

Guru Jambheshwar Deer Park, Sathari

About 30 km away in Lohawat subdivision, this walled park is home to more than 250 deer. It is open from 9 am to 6 pm.

Fair dates follow the Hindu calendar and move each year: confirm them with Rajasthan Tourism or locally before you travel.

When to visit

October to March is the most comfortable time, with mild days and cool nights, and it overlaps with the crane season at Khichan. Summers in the desert are extremely hot. Bring warm layers for winter evenings and early mornings at the feeding ground.

How to reach Phalodi

• By air: the nearest airport is Jodhpur, about 135 km away.
• By rail: Phalodi Junction (station code PLCJ) is on the line between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. Check current trains and times with Indian Railways.
• By road: Phalodi is roughly 135 km from Jodhpur and about 160–170 km from both Bikaner and Jaisalmer, which makes it a natural stop on a desert road trip between them.

Travelling responsibly in Phalodi

• Dress modestly at temples, remove your shoes where asked, and check before photographing shrines or worshippers.
• Ask before photographing people, including in the havelis and at fairs.
• At Bishnoi sites and the deer park, respect the community’s tradition of protecting trees and animals.
• Carry water, and take your rubbish back with you: plastic lasts a very long time in the desert.

Sources

1. Rajasthan Tourism: Phalodi (district, fort, temples, havelis, Khichan, Dechu, folk shrines, deer park, timings and distances)
2. Press Information Bureau, Government of India: two new Ramsar sites in Rajasthan (Khichan wetland)
3. Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change: Ramsar sites of India (Khichan designation date and area)
4. Wikipedia: Phalodi Junction railway station (station code; check current trains with Indian Railways)