Bikaner Travel Guide

Bikaner is a desert city in the north of the Thar, founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a Rathore prince and son of Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur. It is less visited than Jaisalmer or Jodhpur, but it rewards a stop with one of Rajasthan’s finest forts, grand palaces, carved merchant havelis, camel country and a famous savoury snack.

History

Rao Bika founded Bikaner in 1488 in a region then known as Jangladesh. He built his first fort in 1478; its ruins are known as Bikaji ki Tekri. The city prospered on the caravan trade across the desert, and wealthy merchant families later built the ornate havelis of the old town.

The fort that dominates Bikaner today, Junagarh, was built around 1594 by Raja Rai Singh, a general in the service of the Mughal emperor Akbar. In the early twentieth century Maharaja Ganga Singh commissioned Lalgarh Palace, designed by Samuel Swinton Jacob, as a new royal residence outside the old city.

Things to see in Bikaner

Junagarh Fort

Built in red sandstone around 1594, Junagarh is unusual among Rajasthan’s great forts because it stands on the plains rather than on a hilltop. Inside are richly decorated palaces, and its museum displays palanquins, weapons, paintings and a First World War aeroplane.

Lalgarh Palace

This early-twentieth-century palace mixes Rajput, Mughal and European styles. Part of it is a heritage hotel, and the Sadul Museum inside tells the story of the royal family.

Karni Mata Temple, Deshnok

About 30 km south of Bikaner on the road to Jodhpur, this temple is famous for the thousands of rats that live in it and are regarded as sacred by devotees of Karni Mata.

National Research Centre on Camel

Set up in 1984 under the Indian Council of Agricultural Research, this working research station on the edge of the city lets visitors see camel breeds of the region and learn how camels are studied and conserved.

Rampuria Havelis and the old city

The lanes of old Bikaner are lined with merchant havelis built in red sandstone, with carved facades, jharokhas and courtyards. The Rampuria Havelis are the best known.

Bhandasar Jain Temple

A fifteenth-century Jain temple in the old city, known for its paintings and mirror work.

Gajner

About 32 km west of Bikaner, Gajner’s lake and wildlife sanctuary were once a royal hunting reserve.

Festivals and fairs

• Camel Festival: held every year in January or February, celebrating the camel’s place in desert life.
• Kolayat Fair: at Kolayat, about 50 km from Bikaner, around the Kartik Purnima full moon in October or November.
• Karni Mata Fair: held at Deshnok in honour of Karni Mata.

Exact dates change every year; check the Rajasthan Tourism events calendar before you plan around a festival.

Food

Bikaner is famous for Bikaneri bhujia, a crisp, spiced gram-flour snack that carries a geographical indication (GI) tag. For more of the region’s cooking, see our guide to Rajasthani food and cuisine.

When to visit

October to March is the most comfortable time, with mild days and cool evenings. Bikaner has some of Rajasthan’s most extreme weather: temperatures have reached 49.5 °C in summer and dropped below freezing on winter nights.

How to reach Bikaner

• By air: Bikaner (Nal) Airport is about 15 km west of the city. Regional flights started in 2017–18; check airlines for current routes. Jaipur and Delhi have the nearest major airports.
• By rail: Bikaner Junction (BKN) is a major station on the North Western Railway, with trains to Jaipur, Jodhpur, Delhi and beyond.
• By road: Bikaner is roughly 330 km north-west of Jaipur, and is linked by road to Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and the Shekhawati region.

Sources

1. Incredible India (Ministry of Tourism): Bikaner
2. Wikipedia: Bikaner (history, Junagarh, Lalgarh, NRCC, airport, climate records)
3. Rajasthan Tourism: festival dates and travel advice