Barmer Travel Guide

Barmer lies deep in the south-west of the Thar, on old camel-trade routes across the desert. It sees far fewer visitors than Jaisalmer or Jodhpur, which is exactly its appeal: the carved ruins of Kiradu, a hilltop temple fort above the town, quiet dunes at Mahabar, and some of Rajasthan’s finest desert crafts, from embroidery and ajrak block prints to wood carving.

History

In the twelfth century this part of the desert was known as Mallani. Barmer takes its name from Bahada Rao (Bar Rao), a Parmar ruler who built a town at what is now Juna, about 25 km from today’s Barmer. Rawat Luka, a grandson of Rawal Mallinath, later took Juna from the Parmars, and in 1552 Rawat Bhima founded the present town of Barmer and moved his capital here. The estate was later held as a hereditary jagir under the kingdom of Marwar (Jodhpur).

Things to see in and around Barmer

Kiradu temples

About 35 km from Barmer, Kiradu is a group of five temples dedicated to Shiva, built in the Solanki style. Their carving is remarkable, and the Someshvara temple is the finest of the group. The site is isolated, so carry water and plan to visit in daylight.

Barmer Fort and Garh temple

Rawat Bhima built the fort in 1552 on a hill above the town. The hill rises to 1,383 ft, with the fort at 676 ft. At the top is the temple of Jogmaya Devi, and the temple of Nagnechi Mata stands at about 500 ft. Fairs are held at both during Navratri.

Juna Fort and temple

About 25 km from Barmer, Juna is the old Barmer: the remains of a fort and a Jain temple that may date from the twelfth or thirteenth century, set among hills beside a small lake.

Chintamani Parasnath Jain Temple

Built on a hillock in the west of the town in the sixteenth century by Shri Nemaji Jivaji Bohra, this temple is known for its glass inlay work.

Devka Sun Temple

About 62 km from Barmer on the road to Jaisalmer, the village of Devka has a twelfth- or thirteenth-century sun temple, as well as the ruins of two Ganesha temples.

Mahabar sand dunes and Safed Akhara

Mahabar’s dunes, reached from the Barmer–Ahmedabad highway, are far quieter than the famous dunes near Jaisalmer and are known for their sunrise and sunset views. On the way is Safed Akhara, the Sideshwar Mahadev temple, with a garden where peacocks roam.

Around Balotra

To the east, around the town of Balotra (part of Barmer district until Balotra became a district of its own in 2023), are several sites that Rajasthan Tourism lists with Barmer:

• Shri Nakoda Jain Temple: an important Jain pilgrimage temple with a long history; its idol is said to have been hidden from invaders in the thirteenth century, and the temple was renovated in the fifteenth.
• Rani Bhatiyani Temple, Jasol: the goddess is believed to have been a Rajput princess named Swarup, and the temple is especially revered by the Manganiyar community of musicians.
• Vishnu Temple, Khed: an old temple, partly ruined, admired for its architecture.
• Mallinath cattle fair, Tilwara: held every year in memory of Rawal Mallinath and lasting about two weeks, it is one of the largest cattle fairs in India. Dates follow the Hindu calendar, so confirm them each year.

Crafts and shopping

Barmer is one of the best places in Rajasthan to see desert crafts. Look for:

• Embroidery in bright threads and mirror work
• Ajrak and other hand block-printed and dyed textiles
• Wood carving and carved wooden furniture
• Pottery, woollen carpets, rugs and shawls

Buy directly from artisans or cooperatives where you can, and ask how a piece was made and who made it.

When to visit

Barmer has an extreme desert climate. Rajasthan Tourism notes summer temperatures as high as 51 °C and winter lows near 0 °C. October to March is the comfortable time for sightseeing; bring warm layers for winter nights and early mornings.

How to reach Barmer

• By air: the nearest airport is Jodhpur, roughly 200–220 km away.
• By rail: Barmer railway station has trains to and from Jodhpur. Check current services with Indian Railways.
• By road: state buses connect Barmer with Jodhpur, Jaipur and Udaipur. By road Barmer is about 156 km from Jaisalmer, 130 km from Jalore and around 200 km from Jodhpur.

Travelling responsibly in Barmer

• Barmer borders Pakistan: carry photo ID, and respect any restrictions on travel or photography near the international border.
• Dress modestly at temples and remove your shoes where asked.
• Ask before photographing people, especially women and artisans at work.
• Choose camel operators who keep their animals healthy and rested, and take your rubbish back from the dunes.

Sources

1. Rajasthan Tourism: Barmer (history, attractions, crafts, climate, distances and how to reach)
2. RajRAS: formation of new districts in Rajasthan (Balotra district, 2023)